Q) What do I need to know about installation?
- Moving of Furniture (with the exception of pianos, organs, grandfather clocks, waterbeds, and pool tables) – Our installers will be glad to move furniture in your home if you choose. Great care will be taken not to cause damage to your furniture, walls, or trim. Items we ask that you move would include things like glass lamps, china plates or any other breakables. Irreplaceable heirloom items must also be moved to a safe area of the house prior to installation.
- Wall & Trim Scratches – Our installers are cautious when working around the perimeter of your rooms. However, carpet backings are very abrasive and even with the greatest of care, some scratching can be expected. For walls, use left over paint to do touch-ups. For trim, use either varnish or paint to restore the trim’s finish.
- Seams – Dugan’s Paint and Flooring Centers subcontracts labor to only the most qualified installers to ensure the best installation. Our installers use the most modern cutting and seaming techniques to minimize the appearance of seams. If your job requires seams, they will be put together properly. NOTE: A PROPER SEAM CAN BE BUILT AND STILL BE VISIBLE ON ALL CONTRUCTIONS OF CARPET. Dugan’s Paint and Flooring Centers nor the subcontract installer will guarantee that all seams in all types of carpets, under all conditions will be totally invisible. Some constructions of carpet tend to show more than others. Be aware that lightly colored carpets are more suspect to show the seams.
- Roll Crush – Roll crush is a temporary flattening of the carpet pile. It can cause distortions in the carpets color, texture, and pile height. Seams can be very noticeable on carpet with roll crush. The good news about roll crush is that it is almost always a temporary situation that is usually corrected within six months of installation. If your carpet has roll crush, be sure to vacuum your carpet frequently. Avoid vacuuming the same way every time. Vacuuming from the four compass points will help the carpet to blossom as quickly as possible. However, the best way to correct roll crush is to be patient with your new carpet and give it the necessary time unrolled and installed to raise up and blossom.
- Wrinkles – Avoid scooting heavy objects across the surface of the carpet (couches, love seats, dressers, etc.) and rolling heavy objects across the carpet (refrigerators, beds, chairs, etc.). Lift to move these items. Scooting and rolling can cause the backings to overstretch and result in wrinkling. Wrinkles can also be caused by excessive humidity, inadequate cushion, or not using recommended installation procedures as found in CRI-105 as it relates to power-stretching. The subcontract installer on your job will correct wrinkles in the carpet for a period of one year from the date of installation at no charge if they appear. Charges for carpet re-stretching after the one year period will apply and can be quoted by the installer.
- Fading – Science has yet to develop a color that will not fade with time. All carpets will slowly lose some color due to natural and artificial forces in the environment. This can be delayed by: 1) Frequently removing dirt by vacuuming. 2) Regularly changing air filters in heating and air conditioning systems. 3) Keeping humidity and temperature from getting too high. 4) Reducing sunlight exposure with window coverings or sunlight filter materials.
Q) How do I care for my carpet?
- Properly specified carpet can wear out or appear to (ugly out) if it is not maintained adequately. Dirt detracts from the beauty of the carpet and it also can scratch, distort and abrasively wear the carpet fiber. As foot traffic deposits soil, and causes the pile yarns to flex, embedded grit cuts the face fibers. The carpet begins to lose density and resilience. This soiling must be removed. Therefore, a maintenance plan is no less important to the life of your carpet than the initial carpet selection and installation.
- When preparing a maintenance plan certain facts should be considered: 1) Carpet tends to localize the soil and spills where they occur instead of allowing them to spread quickly; 2) heavy traffic areas, entrances, halls, and steps, will require the heaviest maintenance; and 3) the environment and surrounding areas (greasy oil from driveways or garages, smoke, and wet areas adjoining carpeted areas, etc.).
Q) How do I maintain my carpet?
- Walk-off mats – Control most soil with mats
- Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum
- Spot and spill removal, promptly
- Periodic cleaning (Hot Water Extraction)
Q) How often should I vacuum?
- Vacuuming is the most cost effective maintenance procedure. Vacuuming should be done even when soil is not visible. Eighty percent of soil is walked in, twenty percent is environmental. The following is a normal vacuuming schedule:
- High traffic – vacuum daily (in super heavy traffic, 2 – 3 times daily)
- Medium traffic – vacuum twice to three times weekly
- Light traffic – vacuum weekly
- Laboratory tests indicate that vacuum cleaner with brush of beater action are the most effective in removing soil. The action of the brush disturbs and agitates the pile surface loosening soil particles from the fibers. The strong suction of the vacuum motor then removes the particles from the carpet. Frequent vacuuming is more important than the type of vacuum used. Thorough vacuuming involves three to five slow passes over an area. Do not use a beater bar on looped pile staple carpet.
- A good vacuum’s air flow rate should be about 100 CFM (cubic feet per minute). Never use vacuum bags that are more than 2/3 full. Cloth bags are not as effective as sealed paper bags. Built-in systems are effective if CFM is about 200 because about 50% of CFM is lost at suction point.
- All carpet maintenance requires the systematic use of the vacuum. Proper vacuuming approaches the carpet pile from all directions. If continued in one pattern, the vacuum will actually start to mat the fibers. Direction must be reversed and worked from the four primary compass points. In areas adjacent to entries, carpet should be vacuumed from the four primary directions and the process repeated one extra time. Cut pile requires more vacuuming than level loop. The higher piles such as plushes and shags require a grooming tool prior to vacuuming. Carpet rakes and groomers are necessary to lift the carpet pile so vacuuming can be effective.
Q) How do I spot clean my carpet?
- First, excess matter is scraped off with the handle of a spotter’s brush or spatula. Spills that are still wet should be blotted until almost dry.
- Cleaning solutions should be less than 10 pH, preferably near a 9 pH. For wool 8 pH or less. Don’t apply the spotter directly from the container onto the carpet.
- The cleaning solution should have no optical brighteners, nor silicones.
- In order to minimize the residues, do not use excess detergent.
- The cleaning solution residue must dry brittle – not sticky.
- The spot should not become over wet.
- Work spot cleaner into the spot to prevent wicking (return of spot).
- Must use a white cloth.
- Blot to the center of the spot, do not rub.
- Rinse spot to remove all detergent with slightly acidic solution (water and vinegar).
- Spray stain blocker back onto carpet when dry.
Note: Each fiber manufacturer has recommended procedures for identifying and removing specific stains. Dugan’s Paint and Flooring Centers can provide the 1-800 hotline number for your carpet.
Q) How often should I have my carpets cleaned?
- For most all residential wear and texture retention warranties to be valid, proof of professional hot water extraction is required every 12-18 months. NO RUG DOCTORS.
- Advantages of professional cleaning:
- The strong vacuum system allows immediate removal of much of the water, detergent solution and loosened dirt.
- Detergent buildup in the pile, which contributes to resoiling, is reduced.
- Minimum pile distortion or texture change occurs because mechanical brushing is not involved over the body of the carpet.
- Revitalizes the twist – heat and moisture help the yarn to retwist as much as possible.
- Risks of doing it yourself:
- Over-wetting can cause shrinkage, rapid resoiling, mildew, and delamination of the carpet backings.
- Inappropriate or excessive use of alkaline (above pH10) detergents.
- Hot water can set many spots and stains beyond redemption.
- Inability of rental machines to suction out enough moisture before exposing the carpet to general traffic.
- More About Professional Cleaning
- Avoid walking on wet carpet, and do not replace furniture. If it is necessary to arrange furniture before carpet is completely dry, use pieces of plastic under the furniture to prevent rust or other furniture related stains. Remove plastic after one week in order to allow for adequate drying time under the plastic.
Q) Where does floor covering belong in the decorating process?
- Many people select their floor covering first and then coordinate other products with that selection. The reason: It covers such a large expanse of the room and draws the eye. Frequently, the carpet is done in a neutral color that will work with a variety of paint colors, wall covering patterns and finishing styles. But that doesn’t have to be the case. Bolder use of pattern on the floor can set the tone for a room and help set your overall decorating direction. Independent decorating centers have a full range of products-not only flooring, but also paint, wall coverings and window treatments. With their help and guidance, you can put together a complete look for your room or home that coordinates from floor to ceiling.
Q) How long can I expect my floor covering to last?
- That depends on many factors, including the makeup of your household and how much foot traffic traverses across a particular room. The average resilient floor covering is down anywhere from 10 to 15 years, industry experts say. Today’s vinyl flooring is very durable and easy to maintain. In many cases, the likelihood is that the homeowner will want to change the flooring for decorating purposes rather than because it has worn out. Carpet, meanwhile, is usually kept in a home for seven to 10 years, but many variables exist-not the least of which is the quality of the carpet you choose. Ask your floor covering dealer about longevity expectations and warranties whenever you buy floor covering.
Q) How can I remove dried glue from my laminate floor?
- Hardened glue left over after your floor is installed can be removed with Acetone™ nail polish remover or special glue solvents.
Q) Can I buy a Shaw carpet direct from the factory?
- Shaw believes that carpet is a custom installed product for each consumer and installation. An Authorized Shaw Retailer is trained to provide advice on the type of product suited to your lifestyle, to assist you in selecting the proper underlayment (carpet cushion), and to arrange for proper installation by trained installers. Therefore, Shaw does not sell residential carpet direct to individuals.
Q) What are the various types of carpet available?
- There are generally three types of tufted carpet construction: cut pile, loop pile, and cut and loop pile. In a cut pile style, the carpet loops have been cut to create individual tips. Examples of this style include velvets and textured saxonies. In a loop pile style, the carpet loops are not cut or sheared. Instead, the intact loops form the surface of the carpet. Examples include multi-level loops and Berbers. In a cut and loop pile style, as the name suggests, you will see a combination of the previous two styles. This type of carpet can range from very striking patterns to subtle tracery designs. Advantages of each: Cut pile styles come in a tremendous variety, making them suitable for virtually any area of the house; some of the textured types do well at minimizing footprints. Loop pile carpets are very durable, making them well-suited for high-traffic areas. Cut and loop styles come in multi-colorations and random patters and have excellent soil-hiding properties.
When selecting a cut pile carpet, you may want to look at the twist, which refers to the number of times the fiber is twisted together in each individual carpet yarn. The tighter the twist, the more durable the carpet will be. For loop pile styles, the measure of quality is the tuft bind, which refers to the relative strength of the attachment of yarn loops to the carpet backing. Higher quality carpets have a denser tuft bind.
Another factor to consider is type of fiber. Most residential carpet is made from four types of fibers or blends of those fibers: nylon, polyester, polypropylene or wool. Nylon is the most common fiber because of its durability, resiliency and soil resistance. Polyester is a soft fiber that provides great color clarity; it is stain- and fade-resistant and less expensive than nylon. Polypropylene, also known as olefin, is gaining in popularity due to it stain-, fade- and moisture-resistance as well as its low cost. Wool, the original carpet fiber, is more expensive and less stain-resistant than the newer synthetics. Yet, it is still sought-after because of its luxury and beauty.
Q) What is the difference between porcelain and ceramic tile?
- Ceramic is usually made from white or red clay and fired in a kiln. They are also, usually finished with a glaze. This is the durable finish that carries the color and style of the tile. Ceramic is an easier tile to cut than porcelain because of its lower PEI rating. Porcelain is made from porcelain clays using the dust pressed method, making it a more dense and durable tile. Porcelain also has a lower water absorption rate, making it ideal for exterior applications. Another thing to know about porcelain, is that the color is all the way through the tile, unlike ceramic which typically is glazed. Therefore, when chipped, porcelain is the same color underneath, while ceramic is the color of the clay, in most cases red.
Q) Can floor tile be used on the walls?
- Yes, floor tile can be used on walls.
Q) Can tile be used outdoors?
- Yes, but the tile should be frost proof and unglazed with an absorption rate of 0.5% or less.
Q. How should I prep old aluminum siding before painting? What type of primer is the best for siding?
A. Remove as much “chalk”, dirt and mildew as you can. This is done by power washing or by scrubbing and rinsing. The only times a primer would be needed are:
- If any bare aluminum is exposed; then use a latex corrosion-inhibitive primer;
- If there is still “chalk” left on the surface, apply a quality exterior alkyd, oil-based primer recommended for aluminum siding by the manufacturer. (“Chalk” is the powdery pigment on the surface of the weathered siding that comes off when you rub the palm of your hand over it.)
Q. Can you paint over an oil-based paint with latex paint or is it vice versa?
A. The rule of thumb is that, given proper surface preparation, for exterior use you can apply quality latex paints over oil-based, but not the reverse. However, if you have many layers of oil-based paint, stick to using oil on oil. For interior use, generally you can use one over the other. Some manufacturers of latex products will recommend a primer when going over oil-based paint.
Q. The stain on my deck is worn and peeling. Can I just re-stain it?
A. Unfortunately, the answer is no. The old stain will need to be removed before a new finish can be applied. Look for an outdoor stain remover that is designed to work with both oil and acrylic finishes. Stripping the deck is not difficult, but be sure to follow the label directions closely. Once the deck has been cleaned down to the bare wood, apply a clear toner, semi-transparent or solid color stain.
Q. When purchasing paint I’ve been asked if I want flat, high gloss, satin or even an eggshell finish. What do these terms mean, and does it really make any difference what kind of finish I have?
A. Those terms refer to the sheen or gloss level of the paint, and yes, it does make a difference which one you use. The sheen or gloss level simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint. The terms you mention are ones that various manufacturers use to describe the shininess of their products. The following chart explains what each term means, and where paint with that type of gloss should be used.
High gloss (70+ on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jams and window sills.
More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the higher the gloss the more likely surface imperfections will be noticed.
Semi-gloss (35 to 70 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children’s rooms, playrooms, doors, woodwork and trim
More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better than flat for high-traffic areas.
Satin or Silk (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss)
Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell.
Eggshell (20 to 30 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-gloss paints on trim for a less shiny appearance.
It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance.
Flat (less than 15 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For general use on walls and ceilings.
Hides surface imperfections. Stain removal can be difficult. Use for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic areas.
Same characteristics as flat.
Q) How do I figure out how many rolls I need?
- There are many roll estimators online that you can use like this one here.
Q) Where should I begin hanging my wallpaper?
- It is recommended that you start in the least visible corner of the room. This is because the starting and stopping point is the point where it will have the least chance of matching.
Q) Is sizing the same thing as sealing?
- Primer seals the wall (or drywall) and helps with preventing paste from absorbing into porous surfaces. It also helps with removal down the road. Sizing give the wall more tooth for better adherence and helps with application of the paper and moving it into place.
Q) Can I order more wallpaper if I run out?
- Yes, but it is important that the lot or run number matches the wallpaper you have already purchased. If you get a different one in, it may not match well enough to work for you. If this is not possible, try to isolate the two lots from each other. One lot on one wall, and the other lot on another.