Q. How should I prep old aluminum siding before painting? What type of primer is the best for siding?

A. Remove as much “chalk”, dirt and mildew as you can. This is done by power washing or by scrubbing and rinsing. The only times a primer would be needed are:
1) If any bare aluminum is exposed; then use a latex corrosion-inhibitive primer;
2) If there is still “chalk” left on the surface, apply a quality exterior alkyd, oil-based primer recommended for aluminum siding by the manufacturer. (“Chalk” is the powdery pigment on the surface of the weathered siding that comes off when you rub the palm of your hand over it.)

Q. Can you paint over an oil-based paint with latex paint or is it vice versa?

A. The rule of thumb is that, given proper surface preparation, for exterior use you can apply quality latex paints over oil-based, but not the reverse. However, if you have many layers of oil-based paint, stick to using oil on oil. For interior use, generally you can use one over the other. Some manufacturers of latex products will recommend a primer when going over oil-based paint.

Q. The stain on my deck is worn and peeling. Can I just re-stain it?

A. Unfortunately, the answer is no. The old stain will need to be removed before a new finish can be applied. Look for an outdoor stain remover that is designed to work with both oil and acrylic finishes. Stripping the deck is not difficult, but be sure to follow the label directions closely. Once the deck has been cleaned down to the bare wood, apply a clear toner, semi-transparent or solid color stain.

Q. When purchasing paint I've been asked if I want flat, high gloss, satin or even an eggshell finish. What do these terms mean, and does it really make any difference what kind of finish I have?

A. Those terms refer to the sheen or gloss level of the paint, and yes, it does make a difference which one you use. The sheen or gloss level simply means the degree of light reflectance of the paint. The terms you mention are ones that various manufacturers use to describe the shininess of their products. The following chart explains what each term means, and where paint with that type of gloss should be used.

High gloss (70+ on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jams and window sills.
Comments:
More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the higher the gloss the more likely surface imperfections will be noticed.

Semi-gloss (35 to 70 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children's rooms, playrooms, doors, woodwork and trim
Comments:
More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better than flat for high-traffic areas.
Satin or Silk (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss)
Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell.

Eggshell (20 to 30 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-glass paints on trim for a less shiny appearance.
Comments:
It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance.

Flat (less than 15 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to use:
For general use on walls and ceilings.
Comments:
Hides surface imperfections. Stain removal can be difficult. Use for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic areas.

Matte
Same characteristics as flat.

Q. Where does floor covering belong in the decorating process?

A. Many people select their floor covering first and then coordinate other products with that selection. The reason: It covers such a large expanse of the room and draws the eye. Frequently, the carpet is done in a neutral color that will work with a variety of paint colors, wall covering patterns and finishing styles. But that doesn't have to be the case. Bolder use of pattern on the floor can set the tone for a room and help set your overall decorating direction. Independent decorating centers have a full range of products-not only flooring, but also paint, wall coverings and window treatments. With their help and guidance, you can put together a complete look for your room or home that coordinates from floor to ceiling.

Q. How long can I expect my floor covering to last?

A. That depends on many factors, including the makeup of your household and how much foot traffic traverses across a particular room. The average resilient floor covering is down anywhere from 10 to 15 years, industry experts say. Today's vinyl flooring is very durable and easy to maintain. In many cases, the likelihood is that the homeowner will want to change the flooring for decorating purposes rather than because it has worn out. Carpet, meanwhile, is usually kept in a home for seven to 10 years, but many variables exist-not the least of which is the quality of the carpet you choose. Ask your floor covering dealer about longevity expectations and warranties whenever you buy floor covering.

Q. How can I remove dried glue from my laminate floor?

A. Hardened glue left over after your floor is installed can be removed with Acetone™ nail polish remover or special glue solvents.

Q. Can I buy a Mohawk carpet direct from the factory?

A. Mohawk believes that carpet is a custom installed product for each consumer and installation. An Authorized Mohawk Retailer is trained to provide advice on the type of product suited to your lifestyle, to assist you in selecting the proper underlayment (carpet cushion), and to arrange for proper installation by trained installers. Therefore, Mohawk does not sell residential carpet direct to individuals.

Q. What are the various types of carpet available?

A. There are generally three types of tufted carpet construction: cut pile, loop pile, and cut and loop pile. In a cut pile style, the carpet loops have been cut to create individual tips. Examples of this style include velvets and textured saxonies. In a loop pile style, the carpet loops are not cut or sheared. Instead, the intact loops form the surface of the carpet. Examples include multi-level loops and Berbers. In a cut and loop pile style, as the name suggests, you will see a combination of the previous two styles. This type of carpet can range from very striking patterns to subtle tracery designs. Advantages of each: Cut pile styles come in a tremendous variety, making them suitable for virtually any area of the house; some of the textured types do well at minimizing footprints. Loop pile carpets are very durable, making them well-suited for high-traffic areas. Cut and loop styles come in multi-colorations and random patters and have excellent soil-hiding properties.

When selecting a cut pile carpet, you may want to look at the twist, which refers to the number of times the fiber is twisted together in each individual carpet yarn. The tighter the twist, the more durable the carpet will be. For loop pile styles, the measure of quality is the tuft bind, which refers to the relative strength of the attachment of yarn loops to the carpet backing. Higher quality carpets have a denser tuft bind.

Another factor to consider is type of fiber. Most residential carpet is made from four types of fibers or blends of those fibers: nylon, polyester, polypropylene or wool. Nylon is the most common fiber because of its durability, resiliency and soil resistance. Polyester is a soft fiber that provides great color clarity; it is stain- and fade-resistant and less expensive than nylon. Polypropylene, also known as olefin, is gaining in popularity due to it stain-, fade- and moisture-resistance as well as its low cost. Wool, the original carpet fiber, is more expensive and less stain-resistant than the newer synthetics. Yet, it is still sought-after because of its luxury and beauty.